The cush drive was fine and didnt nrrd snything doing to it.
Ill add it to these pages if and when the rubbers need replacing next service
Before you put the bike up on the Abba stand remove the retaining pin on the
wheelnut. Stand on the back brake and loosen the wheelnut with a 46mm
socket and a breaker bar.
On the hub side, open the tab on the locknut with a small screwdriver and then
with the back brake still held on, crack the hub nut loose with the 46mm socket
and breaker bar
These nuts can be pretty tight. Be prepared to put some weight on the breaker
bar to get them moving.
Remove the exhaust silencer and link pipe and then get the bike up onto the
Take the wheel off.
Undo the two rear brake caliper retaining bolts and pass the caliper over the
swing arm then lay it carefully on the floor where it is out the way and has no
weight on the hose.
A very brilliant tip I picked up.
When you take off the wheelnut, thread the spacers and washers onto a zip tie as
they are taken off and then seal the zip tie.
You can drop the washer stack into a toolbox drawer now for storage and when
its time to replace them, snip the tie and thread them back on the right order
and the right way around with no confusion over the dished washers.
Remove the 46mm hub nut which you have
previously loosened and thread the washer
stack onto a zip tie like the wheel washer
Slide the rear sprocket and cush drive
assembly off the axle
The amount of crystalised road salt that has got into everything over the winter
is very apparant on the wheel studs.
This took a fair bit of effort to get the wheel released. Its important to get rid of
all this furring before its re assembled.
Remove the large circlip that is securing the
Lift off the sliding plate from concentric hub
and the guide studs.
Slide out the hub out of the swingarm.
You may need tp spray some penetrating oil into the housing on the swingarm.
You can see the winters road salt has got into here as well and crystalised. This
may make the hub quite tight to move.
If it is stuck, keep twisting it back and forth, dont force it. You dont want to
damage the alloy of the swingarm. It will come eventually
That will leave you with an empty swingarm hanging in place.
Note that I have also removed the chain in these photos.
You dont need to remove the chain to get to this stage, if you are just cleaning
the hub or replacing hub bearings then thetre is no need to split or remove the
For chain removal and fitting, see the chain removal page.
Time to use a bit of elbow grease and give all the component parts a good deep clean.
While you are giving the hub components a deep clean, its a good time to take
the opportunity to give the rear caliper a deep clean as well.
The pistons after a winter of riding in salt were ok and moved freely, but the pin
for the self adjusting sliding plate was seized solid. Its important that these pins
Getting the caliper this clean takes a lot of elbow grease...
Take the cover off the rear brake line where it
is routed on the chain guard.
Undo the P-clip that holds the hose to the
inside of the swingarm
Slide out the axle from the hub and give it a
If you are doing a small service (6000 miles, 18000 miles etc) you can check and grease all the bearings and
reassemble it in the reverse order.
If you are doing a big service (12000 miles, 24000 miles etc) you will need to continue and remove the suspension
linkage and the swingarm.
The suspension linkage is completely unprotected from the elements, and every single service I have done so far
the bearings in the drop and drag links have been seized or corroded and needed replacing.
It pisses me off that in a bike I love so much there is such a huge design fault.
If someone ever designed a linkage guard it would be a best seller. Now there is an idea...
If you ride the bike in the winter or it gets ridden in the wet from time to time, its good advice to strip and
check/regrease/replace them on every service regardless of it is a scheduled item in the service or not