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Now the suspension linkage is out its time to overhaul the bearings.
It was clear as they were removed that there was some corrosion and the bearings were not in an ideal state.
This means that both bearings and the sleeves will most likely need replacing.

A fairly reliable check is the 'touch test'.
Where the bearings have left a mark, run the tips of your fingers gently over it.
If its smooth its ok to be rescued.
If the surface is pitted and you can feel it, bin it and get a new sleeve.
The two smaller bearing sleeves from the lower part of the drop link as you can see are shot and need replacing.
The longer sleeve from the top is in better condition and is just about OK to be reused after a good clean.
The bearings themselves as you can see are corroded solid.

At the 12k service these bearings were packed with grease.

This is the effect that salt and 6k miles over one winters ride has on them.
First give the link itself a good clean. It looks better when its reassembled and its cleaner to work with.
Then lever out all the old bearing seals and bin them.

You can smack the bearings out using a drift but you run the risk of damaging the alloy link.
Much better to make a draw bar out of a length of threaded bar and some large washers.

Pic 1:- Slide the threaded bar through the middle of the bearings, put a nut and large washer on one end.
On the other, a socket slightly smaller than the bearing before another washer and nut.

Pic 2:- Tighten up the draw bar using a ratchet and spanner drae the socket on the threaded bar into the bearing space.
The bearing will slowly, slide right out.
Repeat for each bearing and then use exactly the same method in reverse to push the new bearings into place.

TIP: Store the new bearings in a freezer for 24 hours prior to fitting them. The metal will contract and make fitting them MUCH easier.
To get the bearings out of the draglink use a drift and a rubber mallet. Its not made of the softer alloy the droplink is.

Dont be afraid to give the old bearing a smack.

It may take a few hits to get them moving, but once it starts to move it will pop out.
Use the draw bar to put the new bearings in.
There are two types of seal.
Triumph OEM seals and third party seals such as the ones I use from Brammer.

If you get the seals direct from a Triumph dealer they will be made of a hard plastic on the outer edge.
This means thay can be a bastard to get in place.

If you have bought these, the trick to fitting them with out damaging them is to use a stanley knife to scrape a tiny chamfer on the back edge and then smear a bit of grease on the chamfer.
It will then push into place quite easily.

You can see how small the chamfer needs to be.

If you get your seals from a third party supplier, such as Brammer the seal will be a much softer pliable rubbery type of material which will simply push into place as it is.

I dont know if this makes any difference to the protection that they provide but in my opinion the bearings from Brammer are superior, so it follows that the seals may be too.

They are certainly easier to fit.
New bearings and seals all fitted ready for greasing and reassembly.
In the two pics belowyou can see the linkage refitted.
From this angle you can see how exposed the bearing seals are to all the water and crud thrown off the rear tyre.