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Changing the Chain and Sprockets
Cut the old chain off by grinding the head off one of the pins.
Clamp a chain splitter onto the link with the ground down pin
Push the pin out
Remove the old chain.
Dont throw it away yet.
The new chain will be too long and needs to be cut to length.
To make sure the new chain is the right length, do not measure the old chain, count the links.

The old chain will have stretched a fair bit with wear and if you measure it you will almost certainly be at least one link, maybe two links too long on the new chain.

Counting the links is the only way.
Check it and double check it.
Check it again.

Then cut the new chain to length.
See where the O rings sit inside the links.
Undo the nuts on the rear sprocket
New teeth compared to old teeth worn hooked teeth.
Give hub a good clean around the mounting face for the sprocket
Torque up the bolts correctly on the new sprocket
Remove the front sprocket cover and use a drift to lift the security tab on the lock washer
Remove nut and lock washer
Slide off old sprocket
New sprocket compared to old, slightly alarmingly worn sprocket.

The Triumph OEM sprocket has a thick rubber wall on both sides of it.
Aftermarket ones do not. This one is a Renthal sprocket.

Apparently Triumph say this is for sound insulation, but I have more than one bike, both with and without OEM sprockets and if there is a difference in noise levels, Im buggered if I can detect it.

Ill stick with Renthal sprockets.
The nut has a shouldered recess that sits over the splines on the driveshaft
Torque up the nut on the new sprocket
Then use a drift to flatten the lock washer hard onto one side of the nut.
This washer should really be replaced with the sprocket, but if you make sure that you use the opposite side to the washer than was bent over previously, you can safely get two uses out of it.
Shorten the chain run by undoing the hub clamp bolt and rotating the concentric hub forwards.

Feed the new chain through the chain run and hook the two ends up on the rear sprocket.

Fill the link sleeves with the supplied grease and push the joining link into place .aking sure all four O rings are seated correctly
Use a chain tool to press the link plate into place.

Make sure the heads of the pins are peened over correctly with the chan tool. Since taking this picture Ive bought myself a much much better chain tool that I recommend highly.

See the Special Tools page for more details.
When the link is peened correctly, it should move as frrely as the other links and not be tight or stiff..

When you rotate the rear axle by hand the chain should hang correctly with all the links following in line
Rotate the concentric hub to take up the correct amount of slack in the chain with a mesasured amount of slack on the bottom run.
Tighten the pinch bolt to clamp the hub in place
Replace the front sprocket cover
I find it easier to use a link that is sitting on the rear sprocket for this as the teeth on the sprocket hold everything together and still