Pour a can of engine flush into the oil.
Start the engine and leave it idling for 15 to 20 minutes.
You donr HAVE to do this, but if you are replacing the oil with
clean fresh oi, you may as well flush as much old oil out as
possible.
For the sake of 15 minutes its daft not to and this as clean as you
will get the internals without a crank case split.
Remove the oil drain plug.
Use a ring spanner. It means you wont drop the bolt into the oil
which will be bloody hot.
Take off old oil filter.
Mind your fingers, its going to be hot
The leading edge is dented and stripped of paint.
Im sure one day Im going to find the oil filter punctured by
something. It takes a fair beating hanging out down there.
New oil filter on. I like to use K&N filters. They exceed the spec of
the OEM filter and they have a nut welded on the top which
makes getting them off very easy if they get stuck.
Many people say only tighten an oil filter hand tight.
The actual spec is 10Nm, which probably is about hand tight if
you have strong hands.
Put a new crush washer on the drain plug. Dont reuse the old
one.
My drain plug has a rare earth magnet sunk into the tip to catch
any swarf that may end up in the oil.
There shouldnt be any, if you do find swarf on it, Is start to worry
where its come from. Mines always been clean, I think of it as an
early warning system.
Torque it up to 25Nm
Fill it up with oil baby.
Its a wet fill with an empty filter so it will take 3,2 litres, as
opposed to a dry rebuild which would be 3.5 litres of oil.
Double check the oil level after running the engine for a while
later
Undo and remove rad cap on left side
Remove cap on expansion tank
Undo breather plug on right side of rad
Undo the jubilee clip holding the hose connecting to the water
punp
Pull the hose off and drain it into a bucket.
Coolant
Leaving the hose disconnected, undo and remove the drain plug
on the front of the cylinder head on the left side.
Make sure a bucket is under it.
When the system has been flushed, bin the copper washer on the
cylinder drain plug and replace it with a new one and torque it to
13Nm.
Reconnect and tighten the jubilee clip holding the hose to the
water pump.
Fill the system with fresh coolant from the rad cap.
If you have a Haynes manual it says 2.8 litres, this is wrong, it takes 2.3.
FIll it slowly to minimise air bubbles.
Keep filling it until coolant runs from the breather plug on the right side of the rad
then d0 up the breather plug
Do up the rad cap and then run the engine for a few moments.
Feel the pipes to the rad on both sides of the engine, if they dont both get warm, there
is an airlock.
Stop the engine and top the remainder of the fluid up via the expansion tank and fill it
so the fluid level sits in the middle of the min/max markings. It should take just
about exactly 2.3 litres.
Push the hose back on, do up the cylinder head drain plug and fill
with fresh water, the drain again, do this a couple of times to
flush the old coolant.
