This isnt going to be a full fork internals service, just a basic
clean and oil change. My seals dont need changing at the
moment so thats not included either. Ill add that when I need
to change them.
If you are going to remove the calipers from the hoses drain as
much brake fluid from the master cylinder.
A large vetinary syringe is perfect for this
And gob it into a handy jug, dont let it drip on the paintwork.
Also zip tie a little baggie over the banjo to catch all the dot 4
thats going to drip everywhere you dont want it to.
Dont know what the point of this pic was but its here so I
suppose Id better put a caption on it....
Oh look. Its a detached brake caliper...
Loosen the axle clamp bolts
The assumption is that the front of the bike is securely
supported under the front or strapped down at the rear.
Otherwise when you do the next steps the bike will fall on you.
That will be bad and it will hurt.
Undo the axle
Draw out the axle, it may help to gently tap it through with a
Withdraw the wheel and remove the spacers from each side.
They are marked differently because they are different sizes.
Dont get them mixed up.
One axle, two spacers ready for cleaning.
Undo the four bolts holding on the rear half of the mudguard.
They bolt into rubber collapsable well nuts, similar to
windshield nuts. Its quite likey if they are all salted up that
they will be buggered and you will destroy them getting them
When you have hacked the rubber half of the well nuts to bits,
Undo bottom yolk clamp bolts
After you have loosened the top cap, Undo the top yolk clamp
Hold the fork leg while you undo this one or it will probably
land on the floor or worse your foot.
That may damage the fork leg, break your foot and cause the
air to go go so blue youd think it was this web page back
All these things will be bad.
Hold the fork leg.
Undo handlebar riser clamp bolts
Remove fork leg. Repeat for the other leg.
Put the fork legs in a safe place where they wont get stolen by
Here we see a small garden troll who has kidnapped my fork
legs. He is angry I forgot to feed him at lunch and is offering
exchange for a burger.
If this ever happens to you, my advice is feed him the burger.
Complete failure to feed will bring wrath of Mama.
This is a bad thing...
Undo the top yolk nut with a 38mm socket. A spanner will
most likely scratch or mark the top yolk.
Remove top yolk nut
Remove top yolk. Use four or five zip ties to secure it all the
hanging wires from the loom of the way
Remove lock nut using the triumph tool or a castle nut made
from a 34mm socket.
SPeaking personally by the time you buy the socket and spend
the time measuring and grinding the tool, its simpler just to
buy the tool from Triumph.
Remove the tabbed washer.
Undo the lower castle nut. Make sure you are supporting the
bottom yolk as you undo this nut as it is holding the yolk in
Withdraw the bottom yolk.
Lift out the top bearing cover, bearing race, and bearing
Give everything a good wipe and deep clean with paraffin to
remove all the old grease.
Inspect the bearings and all race surfaces. There should be no
corrosion and no pitting
When the bearings are fully dried you need to repack them
with grease. Ive always done this by hand but I found this little
gizmo on Ebay so I thought Id give it a go.
Position the bearing, screw down the top part, connect to
grease gun, pull trigger. Bingo. Packed bearing.
Much easier and it works well.
Im going to get a couple and experiment with cutting then
down and adapting them to make a tool to pack the suspension
drop and drag link bearings which are always a pain.
Holding a fork leg in a workmate or something, undo the top
Remove the dished C washer so it doesnt drop off when you
drain the oil.
Carefully tip the fork leg up over a bucket and pour out as
much oil as possible
Undo the lock nut from the base of the top cap and remove the
Im not sure why this picture shows me holding the rod. Let go
of it and let it drop.
Remove the spring and put it with the top cap and the C washer.
Dont mix up the
Pump the upper fork tube and the rod while holding the forks
over the bucket until there is no resistance, then leave them
upside down over the bucket for a hor to drain the last of the
old oil out.
Changing fork oil is only a service item for every 12k miles.
I think thats bullshit and right here is why it should be done
This is fresh clean 12wt fork oil
This is the crap I drained out of my forks after 6k miles.
Its the same oil.
I didnt use a clean bucket, so ignore the dirt in the bottom.
But you can clearly see from the colour of it that the oil has
degraded. Its also noticably thinner.
The performance of the forks must be affected by it and by 12k
it will be worse.
When the fork legs are fully drained give everything a good
clean. Check the seals and the O ring on the top caps.
Stand a fork leg in a workmate or something to hold it upright
and fill with exactly 469cc of fresh fork oil.
Then spend the next 10 minutes pumping up and down
the rod and the upper fork tube to distribute the oil
throughout the valves.
Repeat for both fork legs and then leave them standing for 15
minutes or so to allow air bubbles to rise to the top.
With the rod and the upper leg completely compressed, use an
oil depth gauge tool to make sure the the oil depth is exactly
This is more important than the volume, but if you did it right
you should find its not far out if at all.
Replace the spring and the C washer.
Set the lock nut to 10.5mm
Put the top cap on and tighten them to the lock nut, not the
other way around.
Use some clean fork oil and lube the O rings.
Pull the upper tube up to the cap while pushing down on the
top cap with the flat of your hand and turn untill the thread
takes, then screw the top cap down and torque it to XXNm.
It may help to slip the top tube into the bottom yok and clamp
it lightly while you torque it up.
FIrst thing to do is remove the brake calipers. If you are not
removing them from the brake hoses then make sure they are
supported on something and not left hanging.
Before you undo the last clamp bolt loosen the fork top cap
slightly. If you forget and the forks are already out you can slip
the fork back in to the lower yolk and clamp it.