Then get a convenient helper to stand on the back brake while
you loosened it slightly.
The bike should ideally be strapped down or secured to prevent
it coming off the stand.
Work safely. If the bike falls on you while you are sitting next to
it, its going to hurt.
Take the hugger and chainguard off
Loosen the pinch bolt on the rear end of the swingarm.
If you are not splitting or changing the chain, lift the chain free
from the rear sprocket teeth and hang it clear of the rear hub as
demonstrated by my little main man
Undo the two bolts holding the brake caliper and remove it from
the carier plate as domonstrated by Josh, my chief mechanic and
main man here
Remove the loose 46mm nut from the cush drive
Slide the axle out from the hub assembly.
Once again demonstrated here by my main little man and chief
advisor
If it is a little stubborn give it a tap on the cush drive side with a
rubber mallet . Do not pull it by the brake disc.
Pull the cush drive off the axle.
Using a large pair of circlip pliers, remove the large circlip
holding the brake carrier/concentric adjustor plate in place.
Remove the brake carrier adjustor plate
Slide the hub out
Take the loose wheel nut off along with the dished washer, the
thrust washer and the collar and the spacer.
Thread a zip tie through them. That makes it easy to ensure they
go back on in the right order and the right way around.
Use a small screwdriver to lift the intentation on the collared
46mm nut on the cush drive.
Remove the circlip off the back wheel nut
Get someone to stand on the back brake again while you use a
breaker bar and a 46mm socket to loosen the wheel nut.
After removing the nut and washers, slide the wheel off the axle.
The hose should be long enough to allow the caliper to rest on
the floor on the left side of the bike without the hose taking any
weight.
Use a C spanner or adjuster tool to slacken the chain by moving
the concentric hub forwards.
Note this nut should be binned and a new one used.
Remove the dished washer and thrust washer and secure them in
the right order and the right orientation with a zip tie as with the
wheel nut washers.
It should come free fairly easily.
Remove the washer
Once again my little main man and chief advisor is showing the
correct way of holding the hub if you have little hands and a
clean shirt on that will produce an explosion from mum if wwe
get grease on it..
Oh. Too late...
Hub free swing arm.
Now give the hub a good clean.
Inspect the bearings. The sealed twin ball bearing on the left side
should be in good condition, turn freely and the rubber seals not
be damaged.
The needle roller cage on the right side should be in good
condition, turn freely, not show any signs of corrosion.
Get a small pot or Parafin and a toothbrush and give the needle
roller a good deep clean. Rinse it and do it again until you have
got all the old grease out.
Take care when doing this not to get parafin on the sealed twin
ball bearing. You dont want capiliarry action taking it in and
attacking the grease.
When the needle roller completely clean and free of old grease
leave it somewhere to dry.
On the other hand, if your hub looks like this you will need to replace the bearings
The needle bearings are dry of grease and rusted almost solid and you can see the grease seal inside
has broken in two and is hanging loose.
In which case
Use a small flat blunt blade to ping out the retaining clip
Use a thin brass drift to drift the bearing out from the other side
Remove the circlip
Remove the seal
Flip the hub over.
Use a small flat blunt blade to ping out the retaining clip
Use a thin brass drift to drift the bearing out from the other side
Replace the circlip. Your goign to want a large thin set of circlip
pliers for this one. Its a bugger to get in.
Using a socket thats just a couple of mm smaller than the outside
diameter of the bearing, gently drift the new bearing into place'
Refit the spring clip and fit the new grease seals,
Do the same for the twin ball races on the other side and refit the
spring clip.
Next give the cush drive an overhaul.
Pull the back plate off. It may be tight but there is only friction
holding it on.
Remove the spacer.
Lift out the seal. Discard it, it should be replaces with a new one.
Use a brass drift, or a socket to drift out the bearing from the
inside
Usng a specific bearing drift or a socket that is about 2mm
smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing carefully drift
the new bearing into place until it is fully seated.
Fit the new seal
The rubbers inside the cush drive should be tight. Over time
they will compress slightly.
A cheat instead ofbuying new cush drive rubbers is to add a layer
of rubber on each face by cutting a bicycle inner tube into small
sections that fit each face. You can just see it in this picture.
Grease the spacer, put it in place and push the cush drive back
together.
