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Removing the swingarm
Using a large hex socket, undo the swingarm spindle bolt
Using the triumph castle socket tool undo the lock ring.
Be careful not to slip, the pegs are very shallow.
Using the special triumph tool undo the spindle clamp ring
You dont need to undo it all the way,
Just undo it enough so that it clears the swingarm on the inside.
About this far is fine
Using a drift or a socket extension, tap the end of the swingarm spindle to move it.
It should require no force at all.
Withdraw the swingarm spindle while supporting the Get hold of the swing arm spindle that should now be protruding from the right side of the frame and draw it out.

A Minime or a random passing child are perfect for this.
Once the spindle is out, the swinarm should withdraw without any effort, although you may have to turn it as you withdraw it.
Remove the spacer from the inside of the frame.
Careful to lift out the swingarm and not to let it drop.

A handy little muscleman is perfect for this job.
Swingarm removed
Its a swingarm. I did that. YAY!

(I think its a youth thang...)
The bearings on the left and right of the swingarm are different.

On the right side there is a sealed bearing with a spacer, on the left there is a closed cage needle bearing with a sleeve.

This is the right side after a good wipe to remove any dirt and debris that may contaminate the bearings.
Lift out the spacer
Using a wide flat bladed screwdriver, very carefully pop out the seal. If you are very careful it wont be damaged and you can use it again.
Its a sealed bearing and so you dont need to grease the bearing itself, but greasing around the bearing and seal will ensure water is kept out.
Give the area a good clean, remove old grease and any dirt.

Give the recess a wipe with clean grease.
A 36mm socket is the perfect size drift to refit the cleaned and greased seal.
Make sure the seal sits a couple of mm back from flush with the service. This is so the seal lips engage on the spacer correctly.
If the seal is flush with the recess it will sit slightly proud of the spacer.
I fill the recess with a smear of grease all around. As said above, this doesnt lubricate, its waterproofing.

The consistent good condition of the bearings in my bikes says waterproofing works and saves time and money at service time.
Re fit the spacer.
Wipe off excess grease.

I like to leave a small film of grease covering the seal in the slight recess.
On the left side, give the external surfaces a good wipe and clean. Remove all dirt, grease and debris that might contaminate the bearings.
This is more important this side as there is a needle bearing.

When its clean lift out the bearing sleeve
Repeat the above, lift out the seal and give everything a goos clean.
I use Parafin to make sure all the old grease is cleaned out the bearing.

When its clean, inspect it. The needle bearing should move freely with no snagging or rumbling.
There should be no corrosion or discolouring.

Any of the above means the bearing and sleeve will need to be replaced.
Once clean and inspected, repack teh bearing with fresh grease, replace the clean greased seal, replace the clean and greased sleeve.

Wipe of excess grease, leaving a small film of grease covering the seal to help waterproof it.
Remove the lock ring