If you are going to be working on your bike you need at least one stand.
ABBA stands come highly recommended. By default they plug ito the swingarm spindle. But if you use the optional footpeg adaptor it allows you to remove the back wheel, suspension linkages and swingarm.
There is also an ABBA front lift arm option (not in this picture) to lift the front of the bike and remove the forks.
Seperate front stands are limited as they dont normaly allow for the forks to be removed. This type from MICRON does but still requires the lower yolk to be in place.
My recomendation is the ABBA stand with the optional front lift arm kit and the optional footpeg adaptor.
With this set up you can literally strip the bike to an engine out bare frame and its still fully supported. Literally no downside.
They also have a product they call a skylift. In my humble opinion this is a very expensive and niche product for people who are super limited with space. 99% of people dont need that and you definatly dont need it if you have a table lift.
Bottom line, the standard abba stand with the front lift adaptor and the footpeg adaptor is the number one best selling motorcycle workstand on the globe across both private tinkerers and commercial workshops. There is a reason for that.
(edit) I have recently seen videos on youtube of people trying to use abba stands and dropping bikes or damaging them. These people are fucking idiots and should not be allowed to hold tools. If you are one of these people, put your tools down and walk away, you are not safe to do up your own fucking shoelaces. Get someone else to do it for you.
Available from www.abbastands.co.uk
This was a treat to myself.
Its a Sealy table lift and it comfotably lifts a Honda Pan European 1200 which is quite a hefty beast.
It is worth its weight in gold.
It makes working on, in, under and around the bike SO much easier.
If you have the space and you do a lot of your own spannering, get one.
You wont regret it.
Highly recommended.
Lubricating cables is a messy annoying job.
Slip this over the end of the outer casing with inner cable running right through it.Tighten the two clamp bolts.
Insert spray lube into the small hole, hold spray open for 10 to 15 seconds.
There are various ways to bleed brakes without vacuum pumps. They are without exception a pain in the arse.
Use a vacuum pump.
You can use a super expensive snap on kit but for 90% of situations an ebay £40 chinese bargain sucky sucky like the one shown here will do. Ive had the one pictured here for 18 years at the time of writing and Im still using it
The Morgan Carbtune carburetor vacuum guage lets you balance throttle bodies simply and accurately.
On the Triumph 1050 engines you can do it using software.
On the 955i engines and all preceding Triumph engines you will need a vacuum guage.
At the time of writing this costs £79 from www.carbtune.com and works on two, three and four cylinder engines.
There are loads of chain splitters, joiners and riveters on the market.
I have used a few over the years and discovered that you pretty much get what you pay for.
Cheap chain tools are crap, they will bend or break and need replacing or they can damage the rivet.
When they do rivet, they struggle to peen the rivet.
You would be an idiot to trust a poorly or badly riveted chain at 100 mph. Its playing with your life.
This is the first chain tool I ever bought.
Its branded Sealy and costs around £30 but if you look on ebay its immediately apparant its a chinese cheap special with the exact same tool being sold under a hundred different brand names.
It does split chains easily. But when you try to rivet, the anvil plates will break. The pins will be slightly out of line because they are soft and damage easily which means it cant rivet securely.
Summary: Its a good splitter but fails hard as a riveter so avoid it.
This is a D.I.D. chain tool.
I find this awkward to split chains and when pressing new link plates on, its prone to creating tight links.
It rivets D.I.D type links that have anpre formed indentation on the tip of the pin very well but doesnt cope well with pins that need to be peened over and the U section is prone to flexing slightly and popping off
If you are using a D.I.D. chain and rivet its ok.
Summary: Its better than the Sealy type, but Ive struggled with this tool enough that I dont like it and dont recommend it.
This is the chain tool I use now.
It does everything well on all size chains.
It splits with ease, will rejoin with push pins, seat link plates, peen rivet pins.
You can buy this tool from ITC (www.international-tool.com) for around £75
Its actually got cheaper since I bought mine and it comes in a soft case now instead of the hard case mine is in.
To remove and fit bearings you will need some kind of bearing puller. The old bearings can be drifted out if you are careful, but the new HK2020 bearings need to be positioned carefully for the seals on either side of them and its important not to damage them.
I made up a bearing press from a length of thread with a nut on each end and a selection of washers, some wider than the bearings and a stack very slightly smaller than the bearings.
This a placeholder for my other bearing press
This a placeholder for my other bearing puller
If you are going to service your Triumphs, you are going to need some large size sockets.
36mm 1/2 inch drive socket for the head bearing adjuster nut under the top yolk on the speed triple955 and Daytona.
38mm 1/2 inch drive socket for the top nut on the SprintST 1050.
46mm 3/4 inch drive socket for the rear wheel nut and cush drive on all triumphs
And there some triumph specific tools that will make your life a lot simpler.
Some of these are home made, some are ebay and some you can only buy direct from a triumph dealer.
Do you need all these? No. But they will as sure as shit make your life easier.
If you have the original complete OEM Triumph toolkit there will be a large C spanner in it
If by some miracle you still have one of these you will know its piece of crap that is made of cheese which is why most of them end up in the bin.
This one pictured here is made from 5mm stainless steel and has a horizontal angled reversable handle that you can swap around depending on which way you are adjusting the hub.
It cost £10 from a tool maker on Ebay and is better in every way possible than the shitty OEM triumph tool.
If you are going to remove the droplink you need to remove the bearing sleeve which means you need a slide hammer.
The tips on slide hammers screw on.
So get a slide hammer tip, cut the tool tip off and weld a 60mm fine thread M14 bolt on.
Scew this into the drop link sleeve, screw the slide hammer onto it and then popping the bearing sleeve out is childsplay.
This is a Sprag Clutch Holder. It is a triumph specific tool.
The sprag clutch, spins freely and you need a very large pin spanner to hold it while the centre nut is undone with a breaker bar. You cant undo a sprag clutch without holding the sprag clutch which is not impossible without this tool but its a fucking site easier with it.
This tool does just that. If you can weld well you could make one up out of sheet steel and some pins but the one pictured here is the genuine triumph tool.
If you want to order one from a UK Triumph dealer, the part number was T3880017
From left to right
Swingarm adjustor socket. Triumph UK part number T3880290.
Swingarm lockring socket, Triumph UK part number T3880295.
Castle socket for SprintST1050 top yoke. Triumph UK part number unknown
Pin socket for 955i top nut. Triumph UK part number T3880300
To get the alternator flywheel off you will need a flywheel tool.
The Triumph service manual and Haynes manual say the part number for the tool is T3880365. This is wrong. This is for later 1050 models
The correct part number for the Triumph flywheel tool for all 955i models is T3880203
The price in the UK at the time of writing is £68 (+20% VAT), or £81.60.
OR
You can just buy an 80mm length M22 x 1.5 pitch bolt which is essentially all the Triumph tool is.
You can see it being used to remove a flywheel here
I bought this bolt from https://arunfasteners.co.uk
Top people.